Monday, June 8, 2009

ams to msn


this is what we looked like as we departed for amsterdam in february.











and this is what we came back with in may.

we've been home from amsterdam for 3.5 weeks and it feels like 3 months already. we accomplished so much in this time getting the house back up and running, gardening, viting with all grandparents, getting kids back into their regular activities, and just generally resuming normal life.

somebody moved into our houseboat a week ago. i feel slightly resentful about it...

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

more about bikes

cycling is king here. i am amazed at the number of bikes, number of stores that revolve around buying, selling and repair, and the wonderful bikes lanes everywhere in this city. cycling trumps every other mode of transportation except trams. i don't think trams stop for bikes so please be careful if you ever come to the netherlands and rent one. but cars and people absolutely give bicycles the right of way and do it graciously!

i can bike down a one way street the wrong way and still make a car stop or move out of the way for me. i can nearly run down somebody on my bakfiets and with a simple 'ching ching' of my bell have them step aside. i can bike on a crowded street, taking up far too much room, and NOT get honked at. it's craziness!

in 3 months only 1 person had the nerve to beep at me while cycling with the kids in the rain. an onlooker glared at them and then looked at me with a certain look in his eye like 'clearly that asshole is from germany'.

people lock their bikes anywhere they can - to trees, other bikes, bridge railings and even boats. the bike parking at amsterdam's central train station houses thousands upon thousands of nearly identical black bicycle (with the occasional orange spray painted variety).

you would think that with a country crazy about cycling they would take good care of their bike but you would be wrong about that. most bikes are pieces of crap but they do the job. poor unused bikes lay dormant with deflated tires and bent wheels like fallen soldiers. police tag bikes that are obviously abandoned and eventually cart them away leaving more space to lock up new ones.

but getting around this city by bicycle can totally elevate your mood. you can get anywhere in a matter of minutes and there is really nothing like cruising down a canal street on two wheels.

dutch minivan bike


i can't believe the trip is nearly over and i haven't discussed my bakfiets. pictured here is how the kids and i have been getting around town for the past 3 months. i bought it on the second or third day after arrival here off craig's list for 200 euros. it is a chinese knockoff of the nice dutch bikes most people with children have here. the bike clearly had issues and needed some repair work and was 'joyless' to ride, if i can quote mike here. it was heavy, wobbely, and took tremendous effort to propel forward despite the flat terrain. the front brakes grabbed at different rates, sending the box portion wrenching to the left or right in inopportune times. however, it was our main mode of transportation and allowed me to go to the market and buy 4 or 5 bags of groceries AND haul the kids at the same time. getting up and down bridges was challenging with it completely full and the kids would give me a turbo charge and chant 'i think i can do it' as i attempted to get up, typically having to pop off almost at the crest of nearly every bridge for a final push to the top. as the weeks went on i got better at the bridges and we would cheer like crazy as we zoomed down the other side.

i sold the bakfiets this past sunday for 300 euros which recouped almost all of the repair work we did. the things is still a piece of crap but at least now it has a new chain and coaster brakes. the people who bought it are using it for their new newfoundland puppy. if we lived in a flatter area of WI i would totally consider importing a nicer bakfiets. i have really enjoyed being car free for 3 months and the kids love being biked around everwhere. nice dutch brand bakfiets go for 1600-2000 euros but are quite beautiful and hopefully much better made than the one we had.

bye bye bakfiets. i will actually miss your squeaky ride.

Monday, May 11, 2009

more videos

i am not sure if i posted this video link on facebook or not, but here is a night cruise in our canal neighborhood.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGakUY69cg&feature=channel

and also a video of us in the bulb district, about 45 minutes from Amsterdam
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFlaPDnGl9M&feature=channel

david going to school. i think i did post this one earlier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI4rdG3IxkU&feature=channel

more on Queen's Day

here is a video clip of our early outings on Queen's Day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtuByJUfvjk&feature=channel_page

you can also see other people's QD videos - there are a slew on youtube for your watching pleasure.

we did have another unusual thing happen that day - for the most part this houseboat moves very little - every now and then you get a swift moving boat that causes too much wake and the house rocks every so slightly. well, on QD there was a boat moving WAY too fast which caused a tsunami-like effect on our block, making all the houseboats rock violently. it caused one of the rings mounted on our house that we tie our little boat to to be ripped out, sending the back end of the boat drifing into boat traffic. the poor people across the canal, sitting out on their terrace and boat enjoying some food, were drenched by this wave. all i could think about was the nasty canal water in their faces and food. yuck.

dutch names

while holland has its share of emmas and hannahs, what this country does NOT need is another sophia. i have met more little girls under the age of 3 named sophia than i can count, although most of them have been from expat families. this morning i copied down the more interesting dutch names from the cubbies at david's school.

i think most of these are girls names: fije, sanna, elisa, suus, pilou, isa, lotus, benthe, meis, jacobine, maud, bien, feelin, hylke, sita, riva, nomi, philein.

i think most of
these are boys names: lars, arlen, pascal, cosmo, luuk, bas, ramses, thymen, noortje, jep, milou, mels, teun.

not a lisa or heather in the bunch.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

we survived Queen's Day!!! and enjoyed it!


Queen's Day has come and gone and we survived - it actually was not as crazy as i thought it would be. i expected it to be very loud throughout the night but once it got dark the traffic on the water died down quickly. i am sure the streets were still crazy but we didn't venture out past 5pm or so, as managing the streets was nearly impossible. and forget bringing kids out in that mess of humanity. but alas, i am getting ahead of myself.

the morning started very early - i woke up around 6am and ventured out on my bike. people were starting to set up their blankets on the ground and unpacking their stuff to sell. it is the one day where anybody can sell anything without a permit so people tape off stretches of sidewalk a day or two beforehand and claim it as their own. i saw pretty much everything being sold (except for old bras, sorry mary!).

our local park, amstelveld, is designated as a kids only sale. young merchants sold all their old toys and clothes to make money for new stuff. they also sold baked goods and set up games to make money. our neighbor's children sold cupcakes and had a manicure station as their money making scheme. my kids had been saving their (well MY) money for weeks and circled the park over and over again with their banks in hand searching for stuff to buy. i indulged them in basically anything they wanted since we had been hyping it soo much. the photo here was taken early in the morning - the park got much more crowded and busy by mid morning.

after amstelveld we ventured into vondel park. holy crowded. it took forever to get into the park and navigate anywhere. again, more sales were going on, as well as kid friendly activities like acrobats and kid dj's.

by the time we got out of vondel park the canal streets were incredibly crowded and it took us quite some time to go the short distance home. music and people were spilling out of bars congesting the intersections and mini raves popped up with very loud music. and let me tell you, techno is alive and well in europe.





the canal boat traffic was also incredible. we enjoyed watching it from the safety of our terrace as were not NOT about to navigate the boat in the sea of watercraft. we saw some pretty stupid things, too, like 2 large boats roped together which caused a traffic jam which caused both boats to be hit and one of them almost slamming into our house. boats were jammed with people and had large sound systems blarring techno music. it was quite a site to experience. every canal in the area probably looked like this.

i also saw massive amounts of public urination. despite hundreds or portable urinals throughout the city most men found it perfectly appropriate to pee anywhere they felt like it. on one block i saw 6 men peeing. and what really ticked me off was that port-a-potties were not free so women were forced to pay to pee, unlike men... grrrrr. i didnt see a single woman squatting to pee in public but then again, i didn't venture out past 5pm....

the only odd thing that happed was that a boat of men pulled up to our house and tried to gain access to the street by going through the house. there are many places you can pull your boat up to and disembark - why they felt the need to do this at our place is beyond me. i nearly shoved the guy into the canal. and i was standing right there when they pulled up - why they didn't ask me if they could do it just boggles my mind. i would have said no anyway but jeez, just ask me!!

Saturday, May 2, 2009

tulips anyone??

a few weeks ago, upon returning our babysitter home, our babysitter's father suggested we accompany them to the tulip parade in Lisse. Jan grew up in the bulb district and his father and other family members were in the flower business for many years. we certainly didn't want to pass up this opportunity to be guided by a local to see one of Holland's most famous events!

the day started by a well executed rental car pick up, so horray for that! and we even got car seats this time, so horray for good parenting! we set off around noon with our guides in the car in front of us. Jan would call us and point out sights to us along the way and pulled over once to show us a very important dike.

we arrived into the town of Lisse which was inundated with large tour buses. clearly, this was a big deal! people were arranged on the parade route for what seemed like miles. since we had about 90 minutes before the parade started, jan took us into the flower fields and told us about the flower industry - the money you can make on bulbs vs cut flowers, how to tend to the bulb fields, etc. the kids enjoyed running through the never-ending tulip beds.












we headed back into town for the parade but could not get where Jan wanted to be - it was sooo crowded and walking through the crowd was just not possible. we took a spot in the town square and enjoyed the parade and some beers. we also tore into the bread and cheese we had been carrying around but unable to eat until now. the parade is like the tournament of roses parade - the floats are all made of plant material. david, who was pressed up against the barrier, was about 1 foot from the action, while we stood on a picnic table to see what was going on.


after the parade we toured a different flower field and then made plans to go back into town for a meal but naomi threw up all over the place so we headed back home.

Monday, April 20, 2009

24 days left until departure

our trip is winding down and we are starting to think about home and things that need to be done there - the boat lift and pier are being put in the water this week, activities for the kids are being chosen, and we are thinking about what is coming home with us vs going in the garbage.. sad that the trip is coming to an end - it has been wonderful and exciting to live here.

spring is absolutely beautiful. the temps have been in the 60's and 70's every day for the past 2 or 3 weeks. trees and flowers are in full bloom. canal boat traffic is very busy. when we arrived in february we rarely saw a boat go by the house except for a few boats rowing crew - now there is a current stream of boats that pass within feet of our windows. i have to remember to shut the bathroom door bc there is a window directly across from it...

i feel like i am finally hitting my stride with meeting and getting together with people - just in time to leave... our babysitter's father is taking us to a tulip parade next weekend in a town about 45 minutes from here.

this is mike's final week of heavy travel! next week we will travel with him to belgium for 2 days and then have a few days off for queen's day, april 30th. it is supposed to be absolute madness for a day or two so i suspect i will have many blogs posts about it. then a quick trip to heidelberg for him and then he gets to relax here for the remainder of our stay.

we have been out to several museums thanks to our museum card - jewish historical museum, amsterdam historical museum, rijksmuseum (which is in the middle of a renovation and frankly, not worth a visit right now...), and NEMO. we still have the van gogh museum to hit before we leave and the tropenmuseum for the kids.

but i know that wisconsin is coming into the best time of year when we return, so i am focusing on that. i am looking forward to seeing my friends again and having the kids play with theirs. i am looking forward to wearing different clothes, too...

Monday, April 13, 2009

massive understatement of the year - the dutch have a more relaxed attitude toward sex


we visited the NEMO Science Center today. it is a fine science museum and i shall refrain from commenting on most of it. suffice it to say, it is worth its entrance fee and is a great way to spend the day with the kids.



however, the teen section was perhaps one of the most unexpected things i have seen during my time here in europe. it contained a 'peep show' exhibit that was for ages 12 and up. it was a very frank, honest, and explicit exhibit that explained that all people and animals have sex - complete with video and other props. you can see here the display case of anatomical models showing a variety of sexual positions as well a collection of condoms, birth control options, and other aids.. they also had quizes which tested your knowledge on HIV, masterbation, and homosexuality.

it also had little peep show booths with curtains that showed even more explicit sexual information. it showed proper oral sex techniques for both men and women (props were used), proper handling of womens' breasts, and a heat map visual during an erection.




never, in a million years, could i imagine this exhibit in the US. so, if you are over 12 and need explicit instruction on positions like 'pounding the spot' or 'the ram' head on over to NEMO!

Sunday, April 12, 2009

De Kleine Reus

a few weeks ago our neighbor asked us if we would consider enrolling david in the local public (dutch) school. i had never seriously thought about school for him bc i heard getting into schools was very difficult and bc, well, we don't live here. but we inquired with the school administrator and they said it was no problem! he is now a Group 1 student at De Kleine Reus (The Little Giant) Basisschool. he is in a mixed class of groups 1&2 (4 and 5 year olds) and it is equivalent of 2 years of american style kindergarten. so starts the routine of setting an alarm every morning and starting our day early!

he has 2 teachers - Matilda and Mila. it is quite common for teachers
to work part-time so Matilda teaches MTW, and Mila, ThF. the school follows a developmental-oriented philosophy but i have not found much info about that other than they have a central theme that last several weeks in which they use to teach different concepts. the current theme is time and his class has brought in pictures of themselves as babies, talk about clocks and time capsules, and are going on a field trip to an old canal house to talk about history. they also have a weekly 'crea' in which all grades co-mingle and they talk about things like philosophy, biology, and yoga!

i love the morning routine - as we walk to school we see tons of parents and children on bicycles. as we turn corners the school traffic pics up and funnels closer to the school adding more and more students. by the time we get to the street where the school is located the street is thick with parents and kids - some walking, running, cycling, and scootering. i see parents with 3 and 4 kids loaded into and onto their bicycles. then all the parents escort their kids into their classroom and sit with them for a few minutes before the teacher claps her hands and starts the day.

the afternoon routine is a bit different - parents are not allowed in school (probably bc of the mayhem - in the morning they have a 15 minutes window in which the school is open for drop-off). all the parents wait outside and each teacher brings her class down and, one by one, sends the children off to their parent. it is hectic and crazy but fun at the same time.

david has befriended pascal, another english speaking boy. getting any information on what happens during the day is like pulling teeth but i know he is having fun. he did half days his first week and when i picked him up at recess time it was absolute chaos - 3 or 4 classes squeezed into a teeny tiny playground. it is a jumble of running, screaming, playing, climbing, and scootering kids all burning off energy.

hopefully he will pick up a little dutch during his 5 week stint at school. but he is busy and having fun and that's all that really matters. now all i need to do is find a place for naomi and i can become a real woman of leisure!

here is a little video for you all, showing our journey to school on the first day.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI4rdG3IxkU

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

more adventures in overnight train travel


the 15 hour journey from copenhagen to amsterdam was actually enjoyable and fun! and the time seemed to fly by. luckily the kids fell right asleep as soon as i turned the lights off after they enjoyed watching the first harry potter movie (we had just finished reading the book so they got the movie as a special train treat).

i am going to state the obvious that having a first class compartment is supremely better than a second class. we were comfortable and had privacy away from the riff-raff back in coach. ;-) we had a locking door and a key entry bathroom down the hall - with a shower, too! we had a sink with hot water in the room, fresh towels, and crisp sheets.

despite all of this i slept no better than in the second class cabin from frankfurt.. the neighbors were loud and the smell of the train brakes flooded the cabin every time we slowed down.

next week i will put some videos up on facebook so you can see what the cabin felt like.

exploring copenhagen


we had a nice 5 days in copenhagen just being tourists - although walking all day on cobblestones is murder on the feet. i am sure i have a stress fracture in my left foot. the weather was fantastic - warmish and a clear, bright blue sky. copenhagen looks much different than amsterdam - the roads are really wide and the buildings large so it feels less quaint and cozy. however, it does not have an urban feel to it. it is very civilized and proper feeling - the streets and sidewalks are clean and everybody obeys the walk/don't walk signals.

like amsterdam, lots of people use bikes here, and their bikes were a lot nicer than the standard crappy dutch bike. and more people use helmets.

believe it or not, i took the kids to the Ripley's Believe It or Not. this was completely upon david's insistance and really not up my alley at all. it was located adjacent to our hotel and we passed by it several times - each time his curiousity was piqued more and more. it had an animatronic Quasimodo in the entrance which seemed fun to david from the doorway but once we paid our steep admission fee he could barely look at it. it was pretty painful to walk through but we did slowly so we could get our money's worth.. we also went into the Hans Christian Andersen exhibit which, while not totally fear-inducing, had the retelling of some pretty gruesome HCA stories. take the tin soldier and the matchstick girl for example. in the first, the tin soldier falls in love with a toy ballarina and both end up thrown into the fire. the latter is a story about a poor
little girl who freezes to death. not exactly 'feel good' moments.

on saturday we went to watch the changing of the Royal Guard. we gathered right before noon and waited for the guards and their band to march into the palace grounds. the kids got a kick out of that. after walking and more walking i set off to find a laundromat for mike's upcoming week of continued travel. $10 later i had 1 load of washed and dried clothes.


later that day we went to Christiana. i shall dedicate an entire blog post to that subject soon. {edit: it appears beneath this post for some reason}

sunday was departure day but we had plenty of time to go to the National Museum of Denmark. the cherry on top was that it had free admission! finally, some value for the VAT we have been paying! we spent most of the time in the large children's section where the kids could play with swords and shields on a viking ship, play in a pakistani kitchen, build a brick wall by hoisting up baskets full of bricks, and draw pictures. we then had about and hour to zip through the regular exhibits of both national and international artifacts. at that point we were all completely exhausted and mentally preparing for the upcoming journey. we certainly did not do the museum justice as we flew through the exhibits.

when finished with the museum we parted ways with mike - he went back to the hotel to retrieve his luggage and then off to the airport for paris. the kids and i loaded up on food and drink for the train, fetched our own things, and headed for the train station. upon confirming we were at the right place as soon as we entered the station, we read a bit more harry potter and waited for our track assignment. i am not sure about the kids, but i was ready to be back in amsterdam and not go anywhere for a while. but first, a 15 hour train ride.

loser's paradise


no trip to Copenhagen would be complete without a visit to Christiania. this is what wikipedia says about it:

Christiania
, also known as Freetown Christiania is a partially self-governing neighbourhood of about 850 residents, covering 85 acres. Christiania has established semi-legal status as an independent community, but has been a source of controversy since its creation in a squatted military area in 1971. Its open cannabis trade was tolerated by authorities until 2004. Since then, measures for normalising the legal status of the community h
ave led to conflicts, and negotiations are ongoing. Christiania is thus one of the greatest tourist attractions in Copenhagen, and abroad it is a well-known "brand" for the progressive and liberated Danish lifestyle. Many Danish businesses and organizations also use Christiania as a show place for their foreign friends and guests. The purpose is to show something Danish that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

Among the local users are many social security recipients, pensioners, immigrants and clients from social institutions. Single mothers also visit here, not to mention the many homeless and jobless young people. Greenlanders, street people and vagabonds, all find a sanctuary here.

The people in Christiania have developed their own set of rules, independently of the Danish government. The rules forbid stealing, violence, guns, knives, bulletproof vests, hard drugs and bikers' colors.

Famous for its main drag, known as Pusher Street, where hash and Skunk weed were sold openly from permanent stands until 2004, it nevertheless does have rules forbidding hard drugs, such as cocaine, amphetamine, ecstasy and heroin.

if you want to read a more colorful description about Christiania try this link: http://www.hackwriters.com/Christiana.htm

to be honest, i was not overly impressed. granted, i was only there for about an hour so maybe it was just my initial impressions, but it looked very third world and was filled with shifty eyed people. i wouldn't be caught in there after dark. christiania became a social experiment in the 70's - people of all backgrounds living in an active participitory democray with their own laws. however, many of its founding ideals are currently pretty mainstream - freecycling, recycling, repurposing, use of green space, organic foods, etc. i really wonder how relevant it is today.


perhaps i am just being ignorant and would look at it differently if i spent more time truly understanding what kind of community it was. it is a utopian society where liberal ideals and progressive lifestyles prevail or simply a place for backpackers and homeless to sit and get stoned all day?

Saturday, April 4, 2009

international woman of mystery?

two nights ago, while walking out the hotel alone at night, i was propositioned by a man who clearly had 'romantic' interests.. i just chalked it up to being fantastic looking that evening. then again, judging from the women in the red light district in amsterdam, many men are not picky..

last night i headed back out to the cafe for some wireless signal while mike gave the kids a bath and put them to bed. i ordered a beer and then a second. however, a few sips into the second beer i realized i was not going to finish it so i put it in a paper coffee cup to bring back to mike. it was expensive and i wasn't going to let it go to waste!

i was walking down the street, paper coffee cup in hand, as i crossed the entrance to a pedestrian walking zone very close to my hotel. a police car was driving in this zone and it was clear they were not going to stop to let people walk past. so i paused for a second as i was almost pressed against the police car and suddenly a crowd of men enveloped me. they could have gone on one side or the other but choose to go both ways. i rolled my eyes at them and skirted around the police car. as i did it i thought to myself 'i bet the police think i rolled my eyes at them.'

i walk into my hotel lobby and wait for the elevator when 2 police walk in and head toward me. greaaaaat. they ask for my passport which i actually had on me (as well as 2 for the kids and they asked me why i had so many passports on me). they also look into my cup, which i thought was odd. at first i thought maybe they were stopping me for having a beer but: #1 how would they know i had a beer in my cup, and #2 EVERYBODY drinks outside, so clearly that is not illegal. he said i changed direction when i saw the police car (which was not true, i was just going around them) then saw me walk into a fancy hotel and thought i might be breaking into somebody's room. upon seeing my passport he explained that i fit the description of a romanian woman who was either begging or had taken somebody's money. they walk around the square, coffee cups in hand, asking for change. he apologized for the mistake and then explained to the hotel front desk staff what happened and that it was just a case of mistaken identity.

so now i am concerned who i will be mistake for tomorrow?? i don't think it could get any worse than a romanian street beggar...

Thursday, April 2, 2009

feeling guilty

i am standing on a street corner in copenhagen, in the dark, getting somebody's open wireless connection. i feel like i am doing something illicit.

the price of living in copenhagen

i took one of those hop on/hope off bus tours today. upon paying the driver we started up a little chat so i asked him how people survive in this expensive city. his reply was 'have you been to norway? go there and see how good we have it here. cigarettes cost 10 euros per pack!'. then he continued, 'people visit and think we have it really good here but really it's only the really rich that do. everybody else has their coffee and beer at home – we just cannot afford to eat out'.

european road trip #2

so picture us with 2 heavy and cumbersome cases for mike's 20 work laptops, a huge suitcase with a weeks worth of clothes for the family, a very large backpack filled with computer equipment, 2 smaller bags that we hand carry and 2 kids. we are chilling in the train station with plenty of time to kill, watching the departure board for our train information. time ticks away and trains numbers that depart after ours start appearing on the board. suddenly mike says 'why don't i see more night trains here? where are the trains to paris, rome, and amsterdam?” i take our tickets and go seek out a train station official. i find a help desk and ask her about our train and she informs me WE ARE AT THE WRONG EFFING TRAIN STATION... she tells us to go down 2 flights of escalators and catch a subway train to frankfurt south station – the next one departs in 8 minutes. i run back to mike and within seconds we grab all of our stuff and negotiate said escalators and children (who still don't like getting on an escalator without holding somebody's hand...). we find the track and 3 minutes later the subway arrives. we have to go 6 stops before frankfurt south, then find our track for our train and we have about 17 minutes to do it...

once on the subway i thought i was going to throw up. i could not believe that we didnt verify we were in the right place. with all that time we killed in the station we could have made a simple inquiry and saved ourselves this problem. what would happen if we missed out train?? i didn't want to think about it. we just took it minute by minute and prepped the kids for the sprint out of the subway and up to find our departure track. 2 strangers helped us with our stuff up the stairs and we located our track to find all of the train personnel still having a smoke on the platform. we made it! we get on with maybe 3-4 minutes to spare.

when we booked this trip we reserved first class sleeper cabins to and from copenhagen. but something happenedwith the reservation and it never went through – mike found out that there were no more first class cabins to copenhagen so we had to take a second class cabin. they have 6 bunks in them so it was a gamble - would be have one to ourselves or would we have 1 or 2 other people in it? we find our cabin which has 2 men and a shitload of luggage already in it. but at that point, having just barely made it on to the train, i didn't care. we were there and we would make the best of it. upon entering the train david says quite loudly 'mom, these bedrooms are small'. i heard couple of passengers laugh.

in our cabin was a german man who was off to buy a new car in denmark to save 7000 euros that he would have paid in germany and a chinese man that spoke no english and just a small bit of german. the kids practiced the words they learned on Ni-hao Kai-lan and he was quite impressed with david's pronunciation of 'happy chinese new year' in mandarin.

we found a locked room to put most of our stuff in and settled in for the evening. the kids thought it was pretty cool to pull the beds down and climb in. despite having an ongoing, yet silent, argument about how much the window should be open, it was really like taking a long plane journey and having other passengers around you. the kids feel asleep pretty quickly but mike and i had difficulty falling asleep and barely got more than a few cat naps in the whole night. the other guys had no problem sleeping... we were roused pre-dawn for a passport check at the danish border. i think i had actually been sleeping at that moment, too. david, who slept in a bed and not a crib his entire life, fell out of the upper bunk. how he was unscathed by that we will never know. then i pulled naomi out of her bed and brought her into mine. i didn't need 2 kids falling out of bed and i was continually worried about the train stopping short and bodies flying.

morning came and we arrived around 10am, got in a cab, and went to our hotel to start our time in denmark. our hotel had changed ownership that day from a starwood to a scandic hotel (thanks for the notification starwood...) and there was some big shin dig in our lobby with lots of men in skinny pants.

my initial impressions of copenhagen: everything costs a bloody fortune and everybody smokes. seriously, things are double and triple the cost i am used to paying. a latte that would cost me $2.50 in wisconsin and $4.50 in chicago, costs $7 here. a bowl of soup in our hotel is $20. an order of fries with our falafel was $7. how do people afford living here?? i inquired about cigarettes and they were not as expensive as i thought – about $6.50 a pack. i guess it is a relatively cheap addiction to have. i can't wait to get back to amsterdam where things are relatively cheap!

european road trip #1

we rented a car in amsterdam and hit the road for heidelberg. despite a small snafu at the start – the local rental car office that we could get to by bicycle opened at 10am but closed from noon-5 so mike had to trek out to the airport to get our car – all was well. however, instead of a nice minivan we had to take a large VW eurovan type thing. luckily mike was driving bc it was stick shift!

driving through the netherlands can be described in one word – flat. speed bumps are about the largest thing out there. lots of canals, a glimpse of a few dutch style windmills, and huge greenhouses dotted the landscape. as we entered germany we started to see many massively large wind turbines, which can look pretty ominous when you get up close to them.

driving on the autobahn was, uh, interesting. luckily there was close to zero traffic and our lumbering giant VW got up to about 145 km/hour and of course people were still passing us by a lot. we had no car seats for the kids (we had planned on getting them at the car rental place but at the last moment were told it was not possible on a one way car rental). not our finest parenting moment...

we had a great stay in heidelberg – the kids and i spent 5 hours at the castle. despite having been there on a trip i made with my german class in high school (1985 or 86) i had ZERO recollection of the place. the castle was great and the kids were highly entertained but completely exhausted by the end of the day. we also took city buses and streetcars which are always a hit.

day 2 of heidelberg was bit more low key – just some walking around the city taking in the sites, eating local food, and having the kids frolic in large town squares. the weather was clear and warm.

after mike's workday we packed up the car and drove to frankfurt for our night train to copenhagen. we ate dinner in a beautiful square and the kids ran around like crazy while we enjoyed some german beers and schnitzel. we had to find a gas station and return our car by 9pm, which we did with 10 minutes to spare. we got to the train station with plenty of time for our 10:18pm departure and hung out in the train station taking pictures and reading harry potter to the kids. we were just so proud of ourselves for timing everything so perfectly (and without any stress-induced arguments!). but that would come back to haunt us... more on that in my next post.......

Saturday, March 28, 2009

the dutch attitude toward children

having been here in amsterdam for about 6 weeks i feel like i can talk about the dutch attitude toward children. of course, these are only my observations from the varied, albeit limited, interactions with dutch children. they seem to be much more laid back with their children than mainstream america (of which i am not a member)

take child safety for instance - it is much more like when i was growing up than the current american attitude. although almost all children are transported by bicycle, i would have to estimate that no more than 5% of them wear helmets, and even that might be generous. i have seen infants in car seat buckets clipped onto bikes. i have seen slumped over sleeping infants being propped up in their bike seat by their mothers, leaving them with only 1 hand to bike with. lots of children ride on the backs of bikes, my own included, without bike seats. toddlers ride their own bikes amongst traffic.

i am pretty certain that water wings are nonexistant here. playground equipment is much more 'dangerous' than at home.

they are also less closely monitored here. i am not sure if that is just a function of city life - playgrounds being more crowded than i am used to, and therefore, less supervision? maybe i have just become adjusted to small town midwestern playground rules since hanging up my city slicker badge? for instance, i was in a crowded playgrount at Artis, the amsterdam zoo. a toddler boy climbes up on a platform where my 2 kids are and pushes them both off and into the sand below. the child's mother was not obvious to me - certainly not hovering over him like i see so frequently at home. i told the child not to do that but i am sure he didn't understand a word i said.

they are also very fond of children being children. they don't seem overly scheduled with lessons and activities. they are allowed to play freely in the park on a daily basis - i see the regulars in a local park by me all the time. they don't seem overly apologetic when something bad happens. at library storytime one day one toddler just walked over to another and pushed her roughly down to the ground. at home that would illicit apologies from one mom to the other and a reprimand to the child. here it went unnoticed, as if nothing had happened, while both mothers obviously saw what happened. i ran into a mom that i recognized from the park at the school david will be attending for a few weeks (more on that topic shortly). upon mentioned why we were there she wondered why i would send him when i didn't have to and then said something about he should attend school if he wants to, as if it should only be his decision to go or not.

they also have very flexible work hours which allowes them much more time during the week with their children than in the US. our neighbors across the street for example - both parents work approximately 4 days a week (with rather flexible hours) which allows them to be home with their kids after school for 3 days of the week. they also have something called daddy's day in which a man can stay home 1 day a week to be with his children. they also have much more vacation from their employers and can easily take days off to accomodate kid's school schedules.

i enjoy seeing a much more laid back attitude toward parenting - simply enjoying your child and letting your kids explore and play without parental hovering. i was never a fan of water wings anyway.

some sort of game thing happening today





so apparently, there is a world cup qualifying match today here in amsterdam - the netherlands vs scotland. they should take a census of scotland because i think every male between the ages of 20-60 is here in amsterdam. they started pouring into the city yesterday, clad in kilts, and ready to drink. and today, everybody not wearing a kilt is wearing orange, the official color of the netherlands, and also ready to drink.

more later when we snap some pictures of the mayhem.

Friday, March 20, 2009

a trip to Amsterdamse Bos


we had a wonderful time at the Amsterdamse Bos yesterday. the Bos is a very very large woodland area situated between Amsterdam, Amstelveen and the Schiphol Airport. it took us about 50 minutes to bike there - mike with the kids in the bakfiets and me on the solo bike. i know i haven't said much about the bakfiets yet, more on that later.

we started at Boerderij Meerzicht, a massive pancake house which boasts 43 types of pancakes, or pannenkoeken in dutch. luckily we got 2 savory pancakes in addition to 2 sweet ones - which after a while was sugar overload. pictured is the pancake
making setup - a rotating conveyor belt which takes the pancakes through the oven. as they come out they are flipped and allowed about 20 seconds in the hot pan before taken out.

luckily we went on a weekday because looking at the amount of seating they had and the deli number system for retrieving you pancakes, it looked like it was possible to wait a very very long time for the delicious circles of syrup and powdered sugar.




i read that no visit to the Bos would be complete without a visit to Ridammerhoeve, a beautiful organic goat farm. with a brilliant blue sky as a backdrop the kids got to wander around the goat pens and feed the young goats from bottles. there were roosters and
chickens everywhere as well as some pigs and cows.

the place had a very nice playground and tons of seating - i imagine it is very crowded on a nice saturday afternoon. i would have loved to sample the goat's milk cheese from the shop but we were so stuffed from our pancake lunch that we passed. however, the kids were not too full to try some goat's milk ice cream. they said it did not taste of goats at all.

hair musings

all dutch males, regardless of age, need a trip to the barber.

not your typical dutch customer service

a few years ago mike flew into Schiphol airport for a meeting in Rotterdam. upon arrival his bag never appeared. to complicate the issue, he was departing via a different airline the following day. he instructed bmi airlines to hold the bag and he would pick it up himself. well, who knows what happened because i got a phone call from the concierge at The Intercontinental Hotel in Amsterdam saying they pulled my luggage (mike was flying with my case at the time) out of a taxi's trunk. the man getting out of the taxi was not mike (the concierge described the man to me) and did not claim the bag as his own.

that left me with the task of trying to arrange getting this bag to mike, who was without a working cell phone in europe. there was no way for mike to get from Rotterdam to the airport via Amsterdam in time to get his plane even if i could have reached him. i knew that mike would be heading to the airport, go over to bmi baggage claim to get his case, and then go to Aer Lingus for this flight to Ireland. the poor thing had already spent at least 2 days in the same clothes he traveled in and would be very anxious to get his stuff.

after a few phone calls with the concierge, he offered to take the train to Schiphol (which was on his way home) after work and attempt to rendezvous with mike in the airport. upon telling this story to some people they have told me that this is NOT an example of dutch customer service, which although i have yet to experience, am told is non-existant in this country, at least on american terms. i told the man what mike's travel plans were and thanked him profusely for doing this.

you can imagine, if you have ever tried to meet up with someone in a crowded place like an airport, that it can be challenging - even with the aid of mobile phones, of which half of this party did not have.

a little while later i get a phone call from mike in the airport. the conversation went something like this:

me: do you have your bag??
mike: yeah.
me: what? really?? what happened?
mike: i was walking through the concourse and heard my name over the intercom and some guy handed me my bag.
me: you have no idea what i did to arrange this! what did you say to him?
mike: i gave him the loose change in my pocket. gotta go, my flight is boarding.

clearly my efforts were not being fully appreciated! seriously, after orchestrating this via several phone calls and the efforts of this total stranger i expected a little more freaking gratitude! but, he didn't really know any of the story so i cut him some slack.

so, why do i bring this up today? well i managed to actually get out and go for a run today and found The Intercontinental Hotel (which is actually only a few blocks away). i walked in and asked one of the 3 men in front of me if they had a concierge named Chris Lith and there he was, standing right in front of me. i told him who i was and his eyes got wide. i thanked him again and i actually got a little misty-eyed from thinking about the kindness of a total stranger. i also verified that he got the Amex gift card i sent him - which i have wondered after these few years.

so there you go, an atypical dutch customer service story to warm your heart.

Friday, March 13, 2009

random bits #2

we finished up another great week here. i am really amazed at how well we can get around and that i almost always know where i am in this city. although, i really dont know many street names since they tend to be complex like Raadhuisstraat, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat, and Gills van Lendenberghstraat. not exactly numbered streets and avenues.

spring is absolutely here in the netherlands. it is consistently in the 50's every day, bulb flowers are blooming, tree buds are opening, and the cafe's have all put their tables and chairs outside. the rain continues but we have actually had several completely clear and sunny days.

we took the first sunny day opportunity to go to the Artis, the amsterdam zoo, only a 5 minute bike ride from our place, and got membership cards. they pay for themselves on the 3rd visit so it seemed well worth it. the zoo is nice, not fabulous, but has a variety of nice animals and playgrounds. it also has an aquarium and a planetarium included in the admission price. i looked up some reviews of the zoo on tripadvisor and some people HATE it because some of the animal enclosures are small - especially the large cat exhibits. i am surprised at how close you can get to some of the animals. they have a great large bird habitat and you can have large heron swoop over your head at regular intervals.

upon arrival here i didn't thing that dutch people were all that friendly or happy but i have come to change my mind. they may not be as loud, boisterous, or smiley as americans but i have come to find they are very welcoming and friendly. i met one of our neighbors today - she came out of her house when she saw me through the window putting my kids in the bakfiets. within 30 seconds of meeting her she offered to have my children come over any time to play with hers when i need to run out and run errands. solo grocery shopping, here i come! she invited me over for a drink tomorrow and a playdate for the kids. major score!

i have made some friends with women of the american women's club. everybody has just been so friendly and welcoming - it's just so nice to experience. it makes me think of how i treat others at home and how important it is to reach out to people who seem like they need a friend.

we are faring well during mike's extended trip back to the US. and even though i have been minorly sick off and on, we are still getting out daily and enjoying ourselves greatly.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

vla - car wax or dessert topping?



so i bought some vla today - it is in dairy section of the grocery store. sold in liters like milk and drinkable yogurt. bizarre name, don't you think? vla? that seems more like what you might say after you tried it and just thought it was ok. like of like 'meh'.




turns out, it's pudding! kids loved it.

reason #1

reason #2 is because they are cold.

reason #3 is because it is a murky brown color.

reason #4 is because occasionally they fish bodies out of them.

but reason #1 not to swim in the canals is because all houseboat waste water, and i do mean ALL, goes directly into the canals.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

access denied

two drunken yet friendly spaniards tried to let themselves in the house today @ 11:30am. luckily i had the door locked but sometimes i am forgetful since i have never been a door locker. i talked to them from the large peek-a-boo window i have in the front door. they were trying to get me outside so i could take a picture of them. sorry boys, you try to open my door and you want me to open it willingly? i think not. finally i shoo'ed them away by passing them a beer through the window.

needless to say, although i will, the door is going to be locked full time now.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

the stop/go bus


this Stop/Go bus runs past our street - about 50 feet from our front door. i just found out it stops in front of the library. we took it home from the library today - it's like a private city tour for 1 euro/person and naomi is free!

Monday, March 2, 2009

all about food shopping.


we've been here in amsterdam for almost 3 weeks but i've gone to the market a thousand times already. pictured here is our local Albert Heijn market (the photo is from wiki but i believe it is the Waterlooplein store - the same one i shop in). i have to admit, the first large shopping trip i did was very stressful. the first 2 times i shopped i went to a very small market and picked up milk, cereal, bread, cheese, and yogurt. but the first time i went to really fill up the refrigerator was less than pleasant. i went at 5pm on a friday which was a big mistake - the place was insanely busy and i felt like i should have had a big sign on me that read 'caution - shopping in a foreign market. stand back'. i think i went through the entire store twice before i found the eggs, which were not in the refrigerated section.

i am a label reader so you can imagine this is impossible when everything is written in a language you cannot understand. so not only do i not know what is in what i am buying, sometimes i am not exactly sure what i am buying at all. the meat department was the worst - is this ground beef? or is it pork? or maybe they grind up other things i am not aware of? i asked somebody for help to make sure i was getting what i thought i was getting. chicken was easy enough.

Albert Heijn has a reputation for being 'the expensive' supermarket but i found their prices to be pretty reasonable. there is an Aldi pretty close by as well as a Dirk that i am going to try out, too. but i really like the AH for its convenience - and generally i am not a convenience type eater - but i am living by different rules here. i love the premade dutch pancakes - warm it up in a skillet for a minute, slap some nutella on it, and roll it up. YUM! they also have a great variety of premade sauces that resemble something homemade. since i am now responsible for most meals in our house, i am appreciating the easy to make food choices i now have.

they also have a decent selection of organic foods! score!

one bad thing about grocery shopping is having to pay in cash - they only take cash or dutch debit cards.

they give out 'football' trading cards when they hand you your receipt. i googled Albert Heijn trading cards and found an ebay link. http://preview.tinyurl.com/c32ywg
people will sell anything on ebay. but the smell when you open the trading card package is really strong and likely highly toxic. i always turn my head when i open a package. formaldehye anyone?

by now i am an expert at our local Albert Heijn. i even have my own Bonus card for sales. i load up the bakfiets with 4 or 5 bags of groceries (plus the kids). thankfully i have only 1 bridge to go over on my way back with the bakfiets fully loaded. some kind person helped me push the bike the 10 feet i couldn't make it at the crest of the bridge the other day. but at the top i hop back on and we fly down the street in our crappy dutch bike. fun times!

Friday, February 27, 2009

random bits #1

today's post has no main theme - no catchy bits or attempts at comedy. just some musings from the past week that really don't fit anywhere else.

this week was actually a bit on the dull side - both kids were ill with fevers on different days so we had 2 days where we pretty much did nothing. we went back to the library on tuesday for storytime but had to leave as soon as it was over because naomi was lethargic and clearly needed to be in bed. we did manage to get some good new books include Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory, which david is just in love with. oh, and i love the library's book check in system in which you slide a book into a conveyor belt and it scans it and then it disappears. and since we left early we didn't get to sample the cafe's offering.. oh well, next week.

the weather has been pretty warm but very wet. there was one day that would have been perfect for a canal tour that we had planned but illness kept us from doing that.

i went to another playdate - mostly dutch women who were all friendly and welcoming. we biked there in the rain and i almost dumped the bike making too sharp of a turn. we biked through vondel park afterward and i know we will be going there a lot more when the weather is dryer.

mike is on his way back here now - taking a night train from dresden. i couldnt hear him well on the phone but i did get that he was really really glad to have a first class sleeper cabin because he could not imagine what a second class cabin would be like. i saw on CNN that the dresden area is refered to as 'silicon saxony' due to the number of semiconductor facilities it had. just thought i would share that little info nugget with you.

i have been keeping up on LOST and American Idol due to my speedy internet connection!

a very large boat docked across the canal from us. just the other day i was looking at the empty space and wondering why there was no boat there. i am not sure how the spaces are doled out - sold? rented? but not 24 hours after wondering i saw them docking this very large boat that had 3 kids in it. hmmm, potential playmates for mine? we shall see.

i am still totally in love with this houseboat. it is so pleasant and peaceful to be in and has everything we need. the kids love feeding the ducks that come to our window. i like watching the flow of the canal change direction as the tide changes. i like how in the middle of the night the water is completely calm and like glass. i love the simplicity of basically a single rectangle with 2 partitions for bedrooms. i like the little bridge, just 1 boat over, that is all lit up. however, i am looking forward to being able to take a stand up shower again.

my coffee consumption has increased 2 fold.. i know, that isn't very good for me but my coffee making system here produces awesome coffee and i just can't seem to stop drinking it. but i wonder how much caffeine i am really taking in because i had 2 cups in the afternoon and then promptly took a short nap while cuddling with the kids.

i am looking into a conversational dutch tutor. you can get by on zero dutch here - not even pleasantries in a restaurant so if i am going to pick up any it will have to be with a class or tutor.

i read in another blog that the dutch like clean windows so i cleaned the exterior of most of the windows. i have to say, they look quite nice. david was watching people cleaning windows on the 4th story of a building with a massive hose on a pole and declared he wanted to be a window washer when he grew up. aim high kid, aim high.